Konfeksiyonda kalite optimizasyonu -yıkamanın pantolonlara etkisi

Abstract

Türkiye'nin ihracattaki en büyük paraya sahip olan konfeksiyon sektörü Avrupa ekonomik topluluğuna girme süresince büyük rekabet ortamı içindedir. Hammadde kumaş ve iplik olan konfeksiyon sektöründe hem kumaş hem de iplikten gelen hatalar kesim, dikim, finisaj ile birleşerek büyük kalite sorunlarına sebep olur. Kalite, verimlilik ve maliyet globalleşen dünya ekonomisinde yerini korumak ve geliştirmenin tek yoludur. Bu şartlarda kaliteye ve kalite kontrolü üretimin her aşamasında önem verilmelidir. Dünyanın her yerinde artık standartlaşmaya gidilmiş ve ISO 9000 standartları ülke ülke benimsenmeye başlanmıştır. Bu çalışmada yapılan deneyler hem kumaşlara, hem de fabrika bazında satılmadan önce satılmaya yıkama işlemi görmüş ve hazır hale gelmiş pantolonlara uygulanmıştır. Önce pantolonların boyutsal değişimleri incelenmiş, kumaşların ve pantolonların datacolour cihazı ile kanat farkı olup olmadığına bakılmış, sonra yıkama, su, sürtme, ter, kuru temizleme, ışık haslıklarına, boncuklaşma, aşındırma ve mukavemet dirençlerine bakılmıştır. Elde edilen sonuçların, yıkama işlemiyle ne kadar değiştiği incelenmiş, bu değişiklerin nedenleri araştırılarak, fabrika için elde edilen sonuçların kabul edilip edilmediğine bakılarak bir kalite optimizasyon çalışması yapılmıştır.

Garment export is the main part of the Turkish export products. Since Turkey is pending to the European Economic Union, She started to practise more liberal economic policies. It means, she started to abandon the legislation aiming to support and protect local industry and restrict the important products. In that case, Turkey is now facing to more and more competition in the world market. In order to protect her position and make more progress, she needs to develop her ability of competitiveness self determination and expansion her own market to keep the services and the level quality of her products at an increasing level. There are three major keys which plays very important role in that aspect: productivity, cost and quality. Ready-made clothing is a branch of industry which produces standard ready-made products using special manufacturing techniques according to standard measures. The production of ready-made clothing includes preparing models the drawing of patterns, cutting, sewing, ironing and packing. Many types of machines are used relating to the type of fabrics and the model of products in the line of manufacture. Establishment have low cost and intense labour force. XII READY MADE CLOTHING FLOW DIAGRAM Raw Material Order receiving Grafhic Preparation Leaves preparation Raw material Store Cutting Numbering, matching Sewing Fixing Planning Model Model Stacking Control and packing Product Store Product Shipping XIII Major part of ready-made clothing establishment: 1- Planning 2- A store of raw material (fabric, thread, accessories) 3- Model stocking 4- Cutting department 5- Sewing 6- Fixing 7- Packing Planning is the department which plans the jobs to do and put them in order in ready-made clothing establishment. A store of raw materials is the place to the store produced and purchased materials such as fabric, threads and accessories. This is the place where to do first controls and assess the quality of the fabric. The goal of that is to prevent the flaws to be seen on the production. The features of models is defined in Design and Modelling Department appropriate fabric for the purpose is chosen in Designers Section. The main parts of the model is prepared in the Pattern Section. Cutting department is consist of planning of graphs laying the fabrics and cutting the fabrics. The jobs of planning graphs, drawing and coping and the appropriate placing of prepared patterns on fabrics are done in this department. In that way, the cost decreases. The pattern lays down and patterns for new sizes are down here. In the section of lying fabrics places over each other in accurate length, width and stress according to the number defined in manufacture planning department. The parts for a garment are cut from fabrics using models in cutting process. Sewing process is done after matching and numbering. Sewing consist of thread, fabric and machine apparatus. There are two kinds of sewing in all machines: XIV 1- Flat sewing 2- Cain sewing Other kinds of are derived from these two kinds of sewing. Sewing are classified regarding to there appearance and the process they are going to be used in. Sewing machines are classified regarding to the process they are used in and their speeds. Sewing needle dips into the fabric taking the thread beneath the fabric and then pull it back on to the fabric. There are many types of needle point shape chosen according to sewing types and the materials to be processed. Sewing thread provides the strength of the garment alone. There for, it must have some properties. Sewing threads are classified regarding to the materials they were produced and their manufacturing style. The places should be paid the most attention at the sewing trousers are zips, back and front pocket. The second most important places are belt bridge sewing and santraphor sewing. Fixing and packing were made after sewing process. During production of ready-made clothing to give a shape to the garment it is subject to a sequence of pressing process after completion of sewing or during the sewing depends on the type of garments. The products are checked one more before ironing, after that, they are put on hangers, labelled with paper tags and than if they have any, the accessories are put on them, finally they are put into the nylon bags, If they are distributed to close distances they go on hangers, otherwise they are packed. According to ISO (International Standardisation Organisation). Quality defined as the sum of characteristics and specifications based on the ability of satisfying the needs of customers which are exist or expecting to be faced in the future. Today establishment must pay attention to quality in order to survive in globalizing world economy, keep its place in the world market and expand it. The best example of this is Japan. XV Quality and quality control are very important at ready-made clothing sector. Especially a country like Turkey, pending for European Organisation should comply the quality standards requirements put forward by the organisation. In ready-made clothing sector, quality is controlled at cutting, sewing and last control departments. The flaws in this sector comes from both fabrics and threads. As a result, it is very important to control raw materials. The experiment are performed on fabrics and trousers made out of same fabrics and washed in the plant. The differences of colours on fabrics and trousers were checked by using datacolor technique, the measures of trousers were taken before and after washing to examine the effect of washing; water, abrasion, sweat, light, dry, cleaning, pilling, rubbing, were checked and the stress resistance were measured for both fabrics and garments. Based on the results, quality optimisation was made to see wheather the results were met the enterprise requirements, and what are the reasons are behind these kind of changes.