Kütahya İli Kadın Giysilerinin Merkez Ve Çevresindeki Farklılıkları

Abstract

Türkiye konumu nedeniyle, birçok medeniyetlere ev sahipliği yapmış, çeşitli ve farklı bir kültüre sahip olmuştur. Anadolunun her köşesi folklorik değerler açısından ayrı bir güzellik ve zenginlik kaynağıdır. Kütahya ili de folkloruyle en renkli ve ilginç yörelerimizden biridir. Türk folklo runda önemli bir yer tutan giysiler, Kütahya'da da oldukça çeşitlidir. Yörede Germiyan Beyliğinin ve daha sonra Osmanlıların sancak beyliği olması ihtişam ve zenginlik getir miştir. Bu ihtişam, zenginlik ile ilin, merkez, çevre ilçe ve köylere kadar uzanan farklılık aynı zamanda da çeşitlilik, araştırmayı daha ilginç kılmıştır. Özel günlere özgü giyim ve gündelik giysi ayrımı Kütahya giyim kuşamının belirgin özelliklerindendir. Kadın her yerde olduğu gibi özel günlerde giyimine özen göstermiştir. "Ağır elbiseler" de Kütahya'ya özgü kumaş, nakış ve dikiş özelliklerinin bir araya top landığı ürünlerdir. Gündelik giysilerde çalışma, rahatlık ve örtünme kaygılan etkiliyken, özel günlerde ise güzel giyinme ve süslenme ön plandadır. Genelenksel Kütahya kadın giysileri de teknolojiden etkilenmiştir. Artık bunları düğünlerde, özellikle kına gecelerinde görebilmek mümkündür. Kısıtlı zaman ve olanaklar içinde gerçekleşen çalışmada mümkün olduğu kadar kap samlı ve objektif olmaya özen gösterilmiştir. Bu çalışmada Kütahya kadın giysilerinin Ege Bölgesi içinde de, özellikler göstermesi nedeniyle, ilin merkez ve çevresindeki giyim-kuşam ve takı farklılıkları karşılaştırmalı oiarak ele alınmaya çalışılmıştır.

Wearing which occured by need of women to cover their body then became an art of dressing up and today which is developing everyday by means of fashion has became common characteristic of the people. Turkish Society is a pioneer on dress and finery But arts as they are also in the other researches on this subject where we have very rich potential still unsufficient. However to see the latest samples come from past is really pleasure altuhough they are very few. Due to its location, Turkey as been the credle of a variety of different civilizations and their cultures. In every corner of Anatolia is a is a rich and beautiful source of folkloric values. Kütahya is also one of the most colorful and interesting folkloric areas. It is home to quite a wide -VH1- variety of dresses which play an important role in Turkish folklore. First, because of the presence of Germiyan "Beylik" (Ottoman trib) and later the Ottoman Sancak "Beylik", wealth and magnificence was brought to the area. This magnificent and wealthy province, along with the variety that can be found both within the town and its surrounding villages, has made this research that much more interesting. There are various kinds of women dress in the centre of Kütahya. The ornaments on them are harmonious and slim. Their fabrics are elegant and thin. Dresses which are processed with care by using quality fabrics are caled "STRIKING DRESS". Today most of such dresses which are worn in Kütahya on private days are manufactured at the workhops of "people Education Centere" and Municipality. Such rich dresses were processed by hand and today are by machines. Women dresses in the centre of the province present ostentatiousness and richness while they are remarkable with their heavy ornaments and diversity of designs Finery and jeweleries used with aforementioned dresses are indicaton of richness. If you compare the wearing style at surrounding and countries of the province with the centre it is observed that countrey wear is more simple. Without a doubt that people's working conditions at the field and gardens effects their wearing style. -IX- Head dresses which are in conic Shape such as brides head cover and bino-fez at the centre and a fez which is cometimes moulded or unmoulded at the countries surrounding have been used. At the centre diamond on the bride's head cover and gold ornaments on the bino-fez although gold and mostly silver ornaments were prefered at the surrounding. Kerchieves were produced by printing pictures of flower and branches with paint on a fabric called bookmuslin. At the side ends of kerchief which has a square shape are pinked by needle bead and shuttle. There is no scale is used on the kerchieves worn at the centre. The pinks on dane kerchieves draw the attention. The pinks which are created by processing yarns in various colours are such as work of art. There are different styles of pinking more than 300 hundred. Needle pinks are most popular bead and shuttle pinks are come second. Dress worn at the centre is consist of 4 parts. Shirt, baggy trousers, üçetek (a long gown with the skirt made of theree sperate pieces) and close fitting jacket. The important point is that harmonious ornaments are very rich and various. At the surrounding there are some additions on the same dress such as apron, knot, colon parts which are painted by madder and weaved by manuel loom. The country women have made colour ornaments and put some beads and scales on their dress upon their feelings come from the heart. Generally they prefered living colours. Ornaments on close fitting jacket are prepared with more care than the other parts. Becuse it is an outer wear. -X- For a finery to be striking the materials and colour used should be in harmony. Gold and silver consist most important part of Anattolian Women's finery. In the centre of Kütahya Golden jevelleries was most popular, pearl and diamond comes after it. Women live in the center take on golden coins which are arranged in a line as hog-backed shape extended through their navel and this is called "navel gold" Especially there is a gold placed in the centre of this ornament, at the same weight with "beşibirlik" (a set of golden coins consist of 5 Turkish pounds) but bigger then it. This was called "Dövme "Beşibirlik". A neclace with motives of flower and leaves and also 8-10 line of small pearl series in twisted form were taken on the neck. There were golden bracelets on wrist; shawl, girde or belt on bely were taken. In Kütahya belt of bride's mother is attached to the bride by her father on wedding date before she left parents home. Same belts which are used in the centre and surrounding are also used at other sites. In the surrounding silver ornaments adorned women's head, neck and bely. Furthermore there are ornaments and down from the belt in shapes of leaf, star and small coins. In some of the them there are green, red and blue stones. Ornaments made uf op bead are also used with silver ones. There is no activity on this subject and this restrains the research to be more extended and detailed and creates the need of more inspections to held on. -XI- In spite of the limited time and availability, this research was done in as objective and comprehensive a manner as possible. Because the dress of Kütahya is so varied within the Aegean region, the differences in the dress and jewelry were taken into consideration in this research