Geleneksel Türk Halk Giysileri Terminolojisi (kadın)

Abstract

Bu çalışma I.T.Ü. Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Güzel Sanatlar Ana Sanat Dalı Türk Halk Oyunları alanında Yüksek Lisans Tezi olarak hazırlanmıştır. Tez üç bölümden meydana gelmiştir. I.bölümde giyimin tanı mı, Selçuklular ve Osmanlılar döneminde kadın giyimleri ele alınmış, II. bölümde giysilerin baştan ayağa kadar yaygın olarak kullanılan par- çaların tasnifi yapılmış, III. bölümde ise kadın giysilerinin açıklamalı olarak alfabetik terminolojisi verilmiştir. Kültür Bakanlığı HAGEM tarafından yapılan çalışma ek kısmında gösterilmiştir.

This study is prepared as a master thesis on Turkish Folklo- ric Dances Subject in Fine Arts branch of Social Sciences Institute of Istanbul Technical University. The thesis consists of three parts. In the first part, an intro duction to dressing and the women dressing in Selchuk Period and Ottoman Period, takes place. In the second part, each item that are used for a complete dressing, is classified. In the third part, the alpha betical woman dressing terminology is explained in detail. Wearing is a phenomena which had emerged by the born of human beings together with the necessity of protection against envi ronment, which had never lost its main aim during its evolution. Type of wearing has been formed and differentiated in accordance with the nations of people and to some extent, with their pleasure. Natural and geographical conditions, economical and social structure and sex are the factors affecting the way of wearing. Even its main purpose is protection, wearing has became a tradition after being formed with various factors Today, wearing is not only reflecting national traditions and seasonal characteristics but it also reflects the international com mon pleasure which is affected by fashion. Wearing has reached today after Meeting many factors and fashion of each period. As a result, we can see the change in the style of wearing starting from B.C. 4000 till today, by observing archeologlical excava tions, books of travel, epitaph, variety of documents, pictures and photographs. The specifications of Selchuk's period is an extension of the previous period. All the wearings, hair tress, boots, felt socks which were found by the excavations of Hun period before Islamic period, shows us that the roots of this tradition belongs to ancient periods. It is also shown by Chinese records that hair tress was very famous in this period. In addition, the variety of hats is also interes ting. The cloths over the hats which were decorated by diamonds are showing the unique Turkish taste. In this period, the most important wearing is the "caftan" which has Turkish characteristics. Caftans are mostly made of wool, cotton, silk. Generally they are open in front and the two parts in front are fixed by a belt. As shoes; rawhide sandels, felt and leather boots were woren. Turkish style belts and girdles are one of the most apparent characteristics of Turkish wearings. Some belts are spewolly women and some are made of precious metals. In this period, earings, necklaces and bracalets are also widely used. Women also carried knives traditionally until the last peri ods of Ottomans. In the beginning of Ottoman period the wearings of men and women were quite simple and looked like each other like the wearings of Selchuk's period. Despite representing the old Turkish traditions in the beginning; simplicity was given up and since fiftenth century imposing wearings were prefered. Woman dressing can be considered in 3 categories: inter nal, external and the outside wearing. In this period cowls and particles played a major role as an unabondonable factor. VI The clothes for woman dressing were being producted at home looms and by tradesman. Silken, woolen, cotton cloth or mixtu re of these clothes were being used as forms of by ornament or uni form. Jewelery also had a specific role in this period. In great citi es or in palaces valuable stones (emerald, pearl, ruby, Jade, coral) were being producted. In suburban, particles were differented to each other according to the regions. These particles were consisted of pure gold or pure silver. Also woman cowls were differented to each other according to great centers or suburban regions. Hair factor had a great role in the adorning of head. According to Anatolian traditions hair ador- nings showed differences in different regions. Also in the same region according to the women's age, social and economical conditions these differences were strict. The bridal cowl was the most pleasent one among the other cowls and head adornings. The Turkish external woman wearing can be considered in 3 groups as loose robes, baggy trousers and a set of skirt and jackets. Generally the most valuable wearings of brides or ceremoni es were Bindallı. This is produced by designing various types of flo wer pictures on a purple velvet cloth. Belts and girdles had an important role in women dressing as accesory in ottoman wearings. The minks and woolen jackets were also a significant piece of dressing in cold weather. As outside wearing dustcoat, Yeldirme and Çar were used. Since the period of second Abdülhamit the sets consisted of skrits and jackets were being used in great cities. In the second part a classification of parts of wearings for head to foot were made. It is observed that women who did not foilew fashion and working in agriculture had kept up the old wearing traditions. A hap- VII piness and aliveness can easily be obserwed in the multi colored wea- rings of Anatolian women. In these multi colored wearings any body can easily notice the secret messages. A cowl, particle or jacket do not matter any thing by them selves alone but significant in a set. This significance only can be pro duced by wearing these in a traditional manner. The materials used in head decoration changes according to the regions. The cowls are decorated by silver and golden particles. The women dressing has various types as for outside, for working, for happy days. The most striking parts are collad as üç etek, Bindallı, Göm lek, Cepken, Fermene, Salta, Ferace, Çar, Çarşaf. Besides, in most of villages aprons which were formed of various colors and pictures and belts that formed of copper silver and gold are the important part of wearings. Women wears sockets that made of wool, cotton or mohair with a varous types of color or arts. Each arts has a different mea ning. As footwear they generally used Çarık, Başmak, Kundura. Woman particles is a mean group in dressing for its various types and models that differ according to regions. Earrings, golds, rings, brochs and valuable diamonds are the most important group of woman decorating. In the third part the explained terminology of wearings are given. This study was performed as an aid to prevent the terminologi cal confusing in the subject of dressing. As a conclusion: Dressing is a social phenomen which showed various chan ges without loosing its main purpose. vm By its traditional lines Anatolian woman dressing had reac hed today by the effects of various cultures. In this time it is purified or had some additional details. So it is not easy to gather together in a system for investigators. The fashion is the most important cause of changes in dres sing. By incoming of fashion some traditional considerations and cul tural notions were lost. Dressing is the exhibition of life style. Yesterday must be known to understand today. Dressing terminology will be the reason of a common termi nology for future investigations and will bring a scientific opinion.