Investigation of laser fading and effect of preparation processes on laser faded fabric quality

Abstract

In the textile industry, laser technology is used to achieve effects on textiles in both micro and macro levels by changing the structure of fibers, since the 19th century. Laser fading is one of the main process of laser technology and is commonly used in denim. Fabric surface from 0.1mm to 0.5mm is processed and faded with this method. Resolution and pixel time are crucial parameters of laser source influencing the result of laser treatment. Resolution controls the density of laser dots per unit area, which is expressed in dpi (dots per inch). Pixel time, expressed in µs, controls the required time to place the laser beam at each point. Longer pixel time means more energy and so higher degree of fading effect. With the increase of pixel time and resolution, laser power density increases. Laser fading is a dry and computer-controlled process. Less manpower is required in this method. No or fewer consumables are used and there is no toxics caused by the disposal of products as on conventional wet finishing methods. With the arrangement of laser processing parameters at the desired level, it provides fast, precise and accurate production with sufficient reproducibility and repeatability, without environmental and health problems. Despite these advantages, laser fading may cause decrease in mechanical properties and higher yellowness on the color of the fabric. In this thesis, firstly, it was aimed to identify the most effective conditions of denim fading by laser treatment with different laser parameters followed by enzyme washing. Secondly, it was intended to observe the effects of chemical pre-treatment applications before laser fading at the optimum laser parameters reported, following by simple rinsing instead of enzyme washing, thereby minimizing the disadvantages of conventional laser fading (laser fading followed by enzyme washing). For this purpose, two different type of commercially used 100% organic cotton denim fabrics with 3/1 twill construction were selected for experimental study. The first fabric sample denoted as G was 435 gr/mt² and dyed with sulfur bottom and indigo. The second fabric F was 480 gr/mt² and only indigo dyed. CO2 laser machinery with a wavelength of 10.6µm and a power of 60% was used for laser treatment. Resolution and pixel time were set into three different levels; 32, 40, 48 dpi, and 300, 500, 700 µs. Subsequently, all laser-treated fabric samples were exposed to enzyme washing at a liquir ratio of 1:10 at 40°C for 10 min. Rucolase STG New enzyme was used for enzyme washing. Change in fabric unit weight, tensile strength (TS EN ISO 13934-1), abrasion resistance (TS EN ISO 12947-2) were evaluated for all fabrics. Color values (CIE L*a*b*, DE*, h*, C*, and K/S), yellowness and whiteness indexes were measured by Datacolor spectrophotometer. Colorfastness against washing (TS EN ISO 105-C06), rubbing (TS EN ISO 105-X12), artificial light (TS EN ISO 105-B02), water (TS EN ISO 105 E01) and perspiration (TS EN ISO 105 E04) were tested and evaluated under D65 artificial day light using the lightbox. From the first part of the experimental work, optimum laser parameters were reported as 40 dpi resolution and 300 µs pixel time. It was observed that, required fading effect with sufficient mechanical properties and good color values can be obtained with lower tensile strength loss and minimum yellowness with the application of enzyme washing under these determined process conditions. In the second part of experimental work, conditioned G fabric samples were washed with nonionic (0.5 g/L) surfactant at 40 °C for 60 min to remove the impurities and sizing agent and then pre-treated with polysilicic asid (PA), bicarbonate (BC), boric acid (BA), borax (BX) and mixture of boric acid/borax (BA/BX), separately. Chemicals were applied on fabrics with impregnation method at a liquir ratio of 1:10. PH was adjusted to 5-6 with acetic acid. Dried test specimens were exposed to laser fading at determined laser parameters, 40 dpi resolution and 300 μs pixel time. After laser fading, test specimens were rinsed at 40 °C for 40 min. With the pretreatment of polysilicic acid and mixture of boric acid/borax, comperable results to enzyme washing were achived in terms of yellowness and whiteness values. 16% decrease in yelowness was obtained and closest whiteness value to enzyme washing was obtained by 12% decrease in whiteness.Preliminary experiments on chemical pretreatment applications were carried out by using G fabric. Based on the results, the sample pretreated with 40 g/L PA has a comparable whiteness index (80.7) with the lowest ΔE value (0.8) compared to laser-treated and subsequently enzyme-washed G4 sample which the whitness index is 91.9. It was followed by BA/BX application with a WI of 80.2 and DE value of 2.2. Lightness values (L*) of polysilicic acid and bicarbonate applications were the closest ones to enzyme washing with the ratio of 2.5%. Considering the results of preliminary experiments, color values and mechanical properties of PA application in different concentrations; 20 g/L, 30 g/L and 40 g/L and BA/BX application were evaluated for both two fabric types; sulphure/indigo dyed (G) and indigo dyed (F). Chemical pre-treatments were applied in same prosedure. It was reported that, pre-treatment applications on G fabric decreased the yellowness and whiteness values of the fabric caused by laser treatment. Maximum decrease on yellowness was observed with the application of boric acid/borax (BA/BX) pre-treatment by 25%. Minimum decrease in the whiteness index of G fabric was observed with the pre-treatment of 30 g/L Polysilicic Acid by 2.5%. Maximum lightness was performed with 20 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatment. 30 g/L polysilicic acid application caused highest increase in tensile strength in warp direction by 4% and 40 g/L polysilicic acid application in weft direction by 27.5% compared to enzyme washed, laser faded reference fabric. On the other hand, 40 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatment decreased the tensile strength by 3.5% in warp direction and the mixture of boric acid/borax caused minimum increment in weft direction by 14.5%. According to Levi's Denim standard, tensile strength values obtained with pretreatment applications were acceptable. It was observed that, yellowness and whitness indexes increased with the pre-treatment applications on the fabric indigo dyed (F) as compared to reference F4 fabric. BA/BX application caused minimum increase by 11% in yellowness with a WI value of 110.0. With the application of 40 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatment, a WI value of 129.3 was obtained, resulting in an increase of 27% compared to reference fabric. Maximum lightness (L*=26.4) was obtained with 20 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatment. The highest increase in tensile strength in warp direction of indigo dyed fabric (F) was observed with the pre-treatment of 30 g/L polysilicic acid. Highest increase in tensile strength in weft direction by 36.4% was obtained with 20 g/L polysilicic acid application. 40 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatment has the lowest increase in tensile strength for warp direction as 1.5% and caused a decrease in weft direction by 2.5% which is also in the range of tensile strength values specified in Levi's Denim standard. As can be seen from findings obtained in this study, lower yellowness and higher whitness values were obtained on laser faded sulphure and indigo dyed G fabric with pre-treatment applications. However, for indigo dyed F fabric, whiteness index increased but there was also a slight increase in yellowness with pre-treatments. Pre-treatment of polysilicic acid and mixture of boric acid/borax provided suitable fading effects compared to laser faded and subsequently enzyme washed reference samples while maintaining the mechanical properties. Considering higher or comparable whiteness index, lightness and tensile strength values both in warp and weft directions and minimum yellowness, it can be suggested that for sulphure/indigo dyed 100% organic cotton denim fabric, 30 g/L and 40 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatments before laser fading can be done followed by simple rinsing, instead of enzyme washing. With the application of 30 g/L and 40 g/L polysilicic acid pre-treatment, whiteness value remains almost the same with enzyme washing and yellowness values decreases by 32% and 35% respectively. The pre-treatment of the mixture of 10 g/L boric acid and borax can be recommended for the indigo dyed 100% organic cotton denim fabric. By this pre-treatment, yellowness and whiteness of the fabric remain the same as laser faded and enzyme washed reference fabric with 35% increased tensile strength in weft direction. It is concluded that, by chemical pre-treatment applications before the laser process, the mechanical properties of laser-faded denim fabric can be preserved by eliminating the enzyme washing, which reduces the tensile strength up to 25%. Besides, all after-treatments were performed with the usage of water, no additional chemicals were used. Thus, environmentally friendly, ecological processes with sufficient denim fading effect, recommended in the market, can be obtained without any enzyme washing.