LEE- Yenilikçi Teknik Tekstiller Lisansüstü Programı

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http://hdl.handle.net/11527/19497

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Konu "denim kumaşlar" ile LEE- Yenilikçi Teknik Tekstiller Lisansüstü Programı'a göz atma
  • Öge
    Investigation of physical performance of denim fabrics washed with sustainable foam washing
    (Graduate School, 2024-01-16) Yılmaz, Hazal ; Karakaş, Hale ; 503201831 ; Innovative Technical Textiles
    Denim fabrics, which have a great importance in the textile industry, are always developing from past to present. Denim fabrics, which have been used for a long time and have not lost their popularity, have a very wide usage area today. Even if the perception of fashion changes, denim products have always maintained their place in the industry. Although denim fabrics are most frequently used as trousers in the textile industry, they are also widely used in products such as dresses, skirts, bags, home accessories and shoes. In addition to its product diversity, it is highly preferred in the textile industry due to its durability. The most important stage that makes denim fabrics visually appealing to the fashion industry is the washing process. The final appearance of the denim is achieved by giving the desired effects to the product with the washing processes carried out at the final stage. With different washing methods, denim is given many visual effects such as worn, vintage, faded, shiny etc. A lot of water and chemicals are being used during denim washing processes, and this problem has been a subject of many researches for a long time. Re-using the waste obtained from denim washing causes another energy loss. This problem exists not only in denim manufacturing but also in many areas of the textile industry. When the damage caused to the environment by the textile and apparel clothing industry is examined, many concepts such as sustainability, ecological production and waste-free production have come to the fore. For this reason, many companies, factories and organizations are looking for new researches and initiatives to do their production using less water, chemicals and energy. Denim production is one of the process that consume much water and chemicals in the textile industry. Many denim manufacturers and brands are still looking for new solutions to reduce this damage. Today, alternative and sustainable searches still continue. Stone washing is one of the most common washing methods used in the denim industry for many years. Stone washing is being processed in industrial washing machines by using pumice stones. Washing times vary depending on the effect desired to be achieved. With the rotation inside the industrial washing machines, dyestuff on the garment wears off due to the friction between garment and stones and the desired effect is achieved. During this process, a lot of water is being consumed and the pumice stone damages the garment when friction is high. Therefore, after the washing process is completed, pumice stones must be carefully removed from the garment and should be cleaned. The process of removing pumice stone requires another rinsing process, and pumice stone that is not completely cleaned from the garment can be harmful for human health and the product. In addition, pumice stone becomes unusable by shrinking or decomposing after a few washing processes. Unusable stones causes waste problem, and also recycling or stock processes of these left stones causes another workload and energy loss. For this reason, washing processes that can be an alternative to stone washing have been the subject of many searches since the past. There are methods that have been developed and are still being developed by many researchers to reduce the use of water and chemicals or to prevent the use of pumice stones. The aim of this thesis, in cooperation with Ereks Blue Matters Factory, is to offer a new sustainable method in which less water and chemicals are being used and the use of pumice stones is eliminated, as an alternative to stone washing. For this purpose, a new technology, the foam washing method, was investigated and washing experiments were carried out. Washing trials were carried out to obtain the effects given by friction of the pumice stone on the fabric in industrial washing machines, by spraying foam on the same washing machines. In the study, firstly stone washing and foam washing recipes and washing process stages were compared. Secondly, the physical properties of the fabrics obtained from stone washing and foam washing were analyzed and compared with each other. For this study, 7 different denim fabrics with different compositions and weights, which are most commonly used in production at the Ereks Blue Matters factory, were selected. Two of the same fabrics were produced, processed as same until washing stage. For the washing process, one fabric was washed with stone while the other fabric was washed with foam. Washing trials were carried out separately for 30, 60 and 90 minutes for each fabric type. As a result of the washing trials, a total of 42 washed denim fabric samples were obtained, 21 stone washed and 21 foam washed. In order to compare the physical performances of obtained samples, color fastness to domestic and commercial washing, color fastness to rubbing, abrasion resistance according to the Martindale method, color analysis with spectrophotometer, stiffness of fabric by the circular bend procedure, tear and tensile strength tests were carried out in Istanbul Technical University Textile and Apparel Quality Control Laboratory. With James H. Heal Titan machine, tear strength test according to TS EN ISO 13937-2 and tensile strength test according to TS EN ISO 13934-2 were evaluated. Abrasion test according to Martindale method was evaluated in James Heal Martindale & Pilling Tester according to TS EN ISO 12947-2. Color fastness to rubbing test was evaluated in SDL Atlas Crockmeter according to TS EN ISO 105-X12. Color fastness to washing test was evaluated in Linitest machine according to TS EN ISO 105-C06, stiffness of fabric by the circular bend procedure was evaluated in A&T Machine according to ASTM D4032 and color analysis was evaluated with Datacolor 650ᵀᴹ spectrophotometer. Test results were compared according to washing durations 30, 60 and 90 minutes for foam and stone washed fabrics. When the test results were evaluated, it was seen that less water was used during the foam washing process compared to stone washing. When the test results were compared, the tear strength test results were higher in all fabrics washed with foam for both weft and warp yarns. Tensile strength test results varied and no generalizable result could be determined for foam or stone washed fabrics. When the wet/dry rubbing fastness and washing fastness test results were evaluated, it was observed that the rubbing and washing fastness values of foam washed fabrics were generally better than stone washed fabrics. As a result of the evaluation, it was determined that the rubbing and washing fastness values of foam washed fabrics were better or the same as stone washed fabrics. After abrasion resistance test according to the Martindale method, no yarn breakage was observed for foam 40,000 cycles. For all fabrics, weight loss was observed as the rpm increased, but a regular rate was not detected in decreasing weights. In most of the tested fabrics, it was seen that the weight loss after 15,000 rpm was less for foam washed fabrics than for stone washed. It was determined that only for 4 types of foam washed fabrics, the weight loss was higher than stone washed, but this difference was less than 3%. When all test results were evaluated, it was determined that the physical properties of denim fabrics washed with the foam washing method were preserved or better. Therefore, it has been proven that the new method can be used in the industry. Although the test results of foam washed fabrics are not significantly superior to stone washed ones, the difference in the ratio of water and chemicals used is quite high. Also, the use of pumice stones is eliminated with the foam washing process, and energy consumption in the process of removing pumice stones or stock waste will be prevented. When these results were evaluated, it was determined that the foam washing method can be used as a sustainable alternative to the stone washing method. Thus, an environmentally friendly method has been developed which can be accepted in the textile industry.